01 — The Shape

What is a pear cut diamond?

The pear cut diamond, also called a teardrop diamond, is a hybrid shape that combines the rounded end of a round brilliant with the tapered point of a marquise. The result is an asymmetric silhouette with a single point at one end and a curved, rounded base at the other.

Like the round brilliant, the pear cut uses a brilliant-cut facet arrangement, typically 58 facets, designed to maximise light return, fire, and scintillation. Despite its distinctive shape, it performs beautifully in terms of sparkle, often rivalling the round for brilliance.

The pear cut's elongated form makes it one of the most flattering shapes on the hand. When worn with the point facing toward the fingertip, it visually elongates the finger and creates an impression of greater slenderness, a quality prized by those who want their engagement ring to enhance the natural look of their hand.

02 — Heritage

A brief history of the pear shape

The pear cut has one of the longest histories of any diamond shape. It was first developed around 1458 by Flemish polisher Lodewyk van Berquem, who is also credited with introducing absolute symmetry to diamond cutting. His innovations in bruting, the process of shaping a diamond by grinding it against another diamond, made the pear's distinctive tapered point possible for the first time.

For centuries, the pear shape was associated with royalty and high jewellery. It appeared in crown jewels and aristocratic collections across Europe. In more recent decades it has enjoyed sustained popularity among celebrities and style icons, cementing its reputation as a shape that is both timeless and inherently romantic.

03 — Key Consideration

The bow-tie effect, and how to avoid it

The bow-tie effect is the single most important quality factor to understand before buying a pear cut diamond. It refers to a dark, bow-tie shaped shadow that appears across the centre of the stone when viewed face-up, caused by light leaking through the bottom of the diamond rather than reflecting back to the eye.

Almost every elongated diamond shape, pear, oval, marquise, exhibits some degree of bow-tie. A minor bow-tie is normal and even desirable, adding depth and character to the stone. A severe bow-tie is a sign of poor cut quality and significantly reduces the stone's beauty and perceived value.

The bow-tie is not graded on a diamond certificate, not even by the IGI or GIA. This means it cannot be avoided by reading a report alone. The only reliable way to assess a bow-tie is to view the diamond face-up, ideally in video or in person.

• Always request a face-up video of a pear diamond before purchasing online
• A faint, symmetrical bow-tie adds depth, a dark, asymmetric one signals poor cut
• Longer pear shapes (higher length-to-width ratios) tend to show more bow-tie
• An ideal length-to-width ratio of 1.45–1.75 minimises bow-tie risk
• At Trusamra, every pear diamond is personally reviewed for bow-tie before listing

04 — Styling

East-west vs north-south orientation

One of the most interesting styling choices for a pear cut engagement ring is orientation, and unlike most other shapes, the pear genuinely offers two distinct looks depending on how it sits on the band.

The traditional north-south orientation maximises the elongating effect on the finger, the point draws the eye upward and the overall silhouette appears to lengthen the hand. This is the most popular choice and the one most associated with the pear cut's romantic heritage.

The east-west orientation sets the diamond horizontally across the finger, so the point faces sideways. This creates a bold, unconventional look that appeals to those who want their ring to stand apart from tradition. It works particularly well in minimalist solitaire settings with a slim band.

05 — Durability

Why V-tip prong protection matters

The pointed tip of a pear cut diamond is its most vulnerable point. Unlike the rounded edges of an oval or the flat edges of an emerald, the pear's single terminal point is a thin facet edge that can chip if struck at the wrong angle, particularly during everyday activities.

A V-tip prong is a specially designed prong that cradles and covers the point of the diamond, distributing impact force away from the vulnerable edge. It is the single most important protective feature in any pear cut setting and should be considered non-negotiable for daily wear.

At Trusamra, every pear cut engagement ring is designed with a V-tip prong as standard. Whether you choose our floating halo or our cathedral solitaire, the pointed tip is always protected, without compromising the visual profile of the stone from face-up.

06 — Comparison

Pear vs oval: which is right for you?

Pear and oval are the two most popular elongated diamond shapes, and they are often compared directly. Both elongate the finger, both deliver excellent brilliance, and both appear larger face-up than a round of the same carat weight. But they have meaningfully different characters.

If you want a shape that is instantly recognisable, unmistakably romantic, and slightly unconventional, the pear is the choice. If you prefer something universally flattering, symmetrical, and perhaps slightly safer in terms of daily wear considerations, the oval is the answer. Both are exceptional choices for an engagement ring.

07 — Settings

Best settings for a pear cut diamond

The pear cut's distinctive silhouette works beautifully with several different setting styles, each of which creates a completely different feel.

• Floating halo — A frame of accent diamonds surrounds the pear, amplifying its face-up size and adding drama. The open gallery beneath the halo creates a floating, architectural effect. Best for those who want maximum presence.
• Cathedral solitaire — The pear sits alone on a clean gold band, elevated by sweeping cathedral shoulders. Every detail of the diamond is visible. Best for those who want the stone to speak for itself.
• Pavé band — A solitaire-style setting with a band encrusted in small accent diamonds adds sparkle to the finger without competing with the centre stone. Best for those who want brilliance throughout.
• East-west bezel — A horizontal bezel setting fully encases the pear's perimeter including the tip, offering maximum protection in an ultra-modern aesthetic. Best for those with an active lifestyle.

08 — Buying Guide

What to look for when buying

Buying a pear cut diamond well requires paying attention to a handful of factors that go beyond the standard 4Cs. Here is what matters most.

• Symmetry — The two halves of the pear must be mirror images of each other. The point must sit perfectly centred along the long axis. Any asymmetry is immediately visible face-up and cannot be corrected in setting.
• Length-to-width ratio — An ideal ratio is between 1.45 and 1.75. Below 1.45 the shape looks stubby; above 1.75 it looks too elongated and bow-tie risk increases. 1.55–1.65 is the sweet spot for most buyers.
• Bow-tie assessment — Always view face-up video before purchase. A faint, even bow-tie is acceptable. A dark or asymmetric bow-tie is not.
• Shoulder fullness — The curved shoulder of the pear (the rounded base) should be full and even. Flat or pinched shoulders reduce the stone's beauty and indicate a poorly executed cut.
• IGI certification — Every diamond should come with a physical IGI grading report confirming cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight. Do not purchase without one.
• V-tip setting — Confirm the setting includes a V-tip prong before committing. This is non-negotiable for daily wear.

09 — FAQ

Frequently asked questions